@Sim-plicity-Dev So, try as I might I've been unable to reproduce the problem the last 2 days. Thank you for explaining the technical details, that stuff is always interesting. I'll get the screenshots whenever I encounter the issue again, but I can answer the question; yes, the wheel remains bumping into the endstop until I switch USB mode from game to sim and/or back. Exiting the game doesn't help. I am using an external, powered USB hub to connect the devices on my rig to the PC. @Ochso I have also found that sim mode works just as good as game mode, but in the interest of clarity I'm only using game mode as per the instructions.

Alas I cant really help you much further. The game for me is just too far down the path of the console port to hold my enthusiasm for it.. Wheels feel very much an add on after the fact. Pure conjecture on my part but The polling rate (in game ) of the USB control device does seem somewhat lower so the wheel may well not being fed the input it desires. Have you tried running the game with the wheel in "game mode" ? That may well dumb down the wheel enough to hold off the feeling you have. ( like the older WRC titles) You will have to reconfigure the wheel in game as it is technically seen as a another USB wheel. Good luck

@loermansa Sorry for the late reply. Thank you. Much appreciated

@xB Most of the steps occur outside our software and are down to whatever tool or utility you use to launch your sim environment. The command line switch above allows 3rd party utilities to load a previously saved profile without the user having to "mouse navigate" as you would normally do. You can thus customise the wheelbase's behaviour to suit different sims/environments without having to manually select the profiles. Where the command is entered would be dictated by the utility in use.

@xB Just had a quick play with KartKraft & would say it's not a hands-off-the-wheel type of sim. With this in mind, it should be possible to get a realistic/useable feel without overdamping the wheel. Can you post a screenshot of your Input Bindings screen within KartKraft as well as your Settings, Advanced and Telemetry tabs from within the SW25 desktop app

@Sim-plicity-Dev Thanks for confirming.

Hi, though I'm quite late to the party, I might still help. I got my SW8C+ running with DR2 using this guide: https://cdn.cloudflare.steamstatic.com/steam/apps/690790/manuals/DR2_Multi_Input_Device_Configuration.pdf My device ID is 028A1CBE-0000-0000-0000-504944564944

@sim-plicity-dev I'll try these out thank you.

@jeanv78 Generally, you would choose Sim Mode unless the title in question requires Game Mode to function. The Presets Installer creates both entries and leaves the choice to you.

@ochso Many thanks for the confirmation. I''ll get the Sim Support matrix updated to reflect

@discopooh Thanks for confirming. Hopefully this will be the case going forward and the annual patching will no longer be needed

@byagm Not sure I've tried it since the firmware has had game mode, will have to try again. I posted this one last year

@whoolkan THANK YOU SOOOOO MUCH! It worked a treat and now for the first time since release I have FFB on FH5!

This solution has stopped working for me. I haven't loaded RBR since I first used the patch and got the FFB working a few days ago, but I can't get FFB working now, no matter what I try. I haven't changed anything as far as I can tell. If anyone else comes up with another answer, I'd be very interested.

@daytona-675 Thanks for confirming "Game Mode" better supports WRC 9 & 10. We'll update the Sim Support Matrix to reflect.

@byagm The fixes are incorporated in v21.07.01 which is being released to "Alpha" on Monday 8th November

@rowland "Weight" is a calculated force that acts against movement of the wheel in any direction. It seeks to simulate the masses that would exist in the steering system of a real-world car. Consequently the optimal value will differ from car to car. Ideally, you want just enough "Weight" applied that you can steer with a fingertip down a long straight but not so much that you can hands-off completely. "Torque" is the value you adjust in concert with iRacing's Force settings and ideally should not be set at values that cause over-exertion. In iRacing (or any other sim), the "Telemetry" tab is your friend for identifying clipping. FFB sessions in excess of 60 seconds are displayed in real-time with the last 4 sessions stored as historical data. The basic principle is to run a representative lap with "Torque" set to a comfortable level. 8-10Nm is a good starting point. Use the auto setting in iRacing to get into the Max Force ballpark and run another representative lap. Check the "Telemetry" tab for clipping in the current session. If your clipping % is higher than 0.00%, raise the Nm value to reduce the gain from the sim and raise the "Torque" value to compensate. Ensure the FFB session is ended by disabling FFB within iRacing then re-enabling it. Iteratively run representative laps till "Telemetry" shows 0.00% clipping Adjust the "Weight" if required to reflect the current settings Finally switch to the "Settings" tab and reduce the "Controller Mode" iteratively until you feel no additional benefit (the lower your "Weight" values, the lower you can run Mode values without motor noise).