@sim-plicity-dev Hi thank you for swift reply, I'm havingthe same conversation with support too this was my reply !. I don't have images at the moment but will forward you some when I get home !  However I did unplug everything bar the power and the USB and tried it in every USB socket on my pc and two laptops and none of them recognised it at all, nothing changed in device manager or in devices and printers, it wasn't the latest firmware I used it was the middle one as I thought that it had been long enough for it to be safe to use lol. As I say there is a red flashing light inside and I can here ticking in the motor too when it's connected.  Many thanks for your help Stu

@the_old_man at https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Comparison_of_direct-drive_sim_racing_wheels are some technical data on common direct drive wheels. My guess is that maybe you could juxtapose a "esport" model to a simagic 10 or alpha mini, when talking about cpr encoder? And then see reviews on those, to get a hint if an esport is enough for you. But if it was me to choose between esport and sw20v3 I would still choose the sw20v3, and not settle for less, because just as @Ochso said, I have also bought this as if its my "last" basewheel to buy. hopefully it can last +10 years and hopefully more.

no new updates?

@sim-plicity-dev Thanks for that explanation. So I take it the SOP effect I think I’m feeling isn’t actually an added effect? It’s more likely to be the new tyre model on the L49. Also where does “extraneous noise” come from? Is that an electrical/motor term or a Sim related detail?

@sim-plicity-dev thank you, guess i will just have to start saving for a bigger one then. Love the 7 but feel i could do with a bit more sometimes.

@sim-plicity-dev Thanks, to begin with the Save button wouldn’t highlight, I tried allsorts but nothing happened. I downloaded the software again and installed it and it seems to work now, slow, but working.

@byagm The fixes are incorporated in v21.07.01 which is being released to "Alpha" on Monday 8th November

@sim-plicity-dev so far after turning the wheel some degrees before start up no disconnect sounds! Seems perfect so far thanks!

@choice Correct, "Presets" are only created for sims with configuration options that are not accessible in-sim while requiring modification for an optimal experience.

@rowland "Weight" is a calculated force that acts against movement of the wheel in any direction. It seeks to simulate the masses that would exist in the steering system of a real-world car. Consequently the optimal value will differ from car to car. Ideally, you want just enough "Weight" applied that you can steer with a fingertip down a long straight but not so much that you can hands-off completely. "Torque" is the value you adjust in concert with iRacing's Force settings and ideally should not be set at values that cause over-exertion. In iRacing (or any other sim), the "Telemetry" tab is your friend for identifying clipping. FFB sessions in excess of 60 seconds are displayed in real-time with the last 4 sessions stored as historical data. The basic principle is to run a representative lap with "Torque" set to a comfortable level. 8-10Nm is a good starting point. Use the auto setting in iRacing to get into the Max Force ballpark and run another representative lap. Check the "Telemetry" tab for clipping in the current session. If your clipping % is higher than 0.00%, raise the Nm value to reduce the gain from the sim and raise the "Torque" value to compensate. Ensure the FFB session is ended by disabling FFB within iRacing then re-enabling it. Iteratively run representative laps till "Telemetry" shows 0.00% clipping Adjust the "Weight" if required to reflect the current settings Finally switch to the "Settings" tab and reduce the "Controller Mode" iteratively until you feel no additional benefit (the lower your "Weight" values, the lower you can run Mode values without motor noise).

@tjohansen found a like to some other’s settings Here

@byagm See response here